This article will help you choose the right wheels for your trailer. To make it clear, wheels are both the rim and tyre. This article is written for those who do not have prior knowledge.
Situations this article will help in
Second-hand trailers have been purchased by people who are seeking bargains.
Anyone who owns a trailer that isn’t roadworthy
GVM Upgrade GVM
The wheel size and wheel size can be upgraded for off-road usage
This article explains how to examine your trailer and pick wheels accordingly.
Step 1: How to determine the proper size of the wheel
This may be simple in nature, as people are used to talking about the wheels of their cars.
Trailers are an entirely different type of vehicle that performs differently than automobiles. They are also not with a logbook that defines the dimensions of the trailer.
It’s possible to accommodate all sizes, such as a trailer that uses 14″ wheels can probably fit 13″ wheels. It is also possible to put 14 inch wheels on a trailer that is designed specifically for 13″ wheels. However, the mudguard could be pressed against the tire during loading, which may make it unsafe.
It is important to select the size that is optimal that is. In order to ensure that your trailer is at a level, you must select the appropriate size wheels. If the wheels are too large or small, then the trailer won’t ride flat, and that’s inefficient.
The current legislation mandates a tyre compliance sticker to be placed on the left mudguard (Kerbside and must indicate the correct wheel size as well as tyre pressure for the trailer you are driving).
If there’s no information on compliance, we recommend measuring the circumference of the existing wheel and how it will fit within the mudguard.
It is possible for trailer manufacturers to alter the mudguards of their trailers to allow for bigger wheels. This is what we will do when we perform a GVM upgrade.
Step 2: How do you select the right Stud pattern
Different models and manufacturers have different bolt/stud patterns. Hubs are where you bolt the wheels to.
Our customers can also choose from choosing from a variety of stud designs for trailer manufacturers.
The process of identifying the stud pattern is quite simple.
There are two main measurements to identify what you are looking for in your wheel’s stud pattern.
What number of bolts are employed. This can be determined by actually looking at the hub of the wheel. Most hubs and wheels will utilize 4, 5, or 6 studs.
The Pitch Circle Diameter is the distance between one hub stud and the hub’s centre determined from the stud to the left. It is difficult to measure this measurement because the hub centre sticks out further than the studs. This makes accurate measurements without the correct tools challenging. Imagine a circle drawn between the middle of all wheel bolts, and then take the diameter of the circle.
It would be like, “Eg. I’m looking for a 4 stud that has 120mm PCD” or something like that.
It is also possible to replace your hubs, and this is the most efficient method to replace your bearings.
Step 3 – Understanding wheel and the tyre ratings
For everything trailer PCD wheel tyre assembly, head on over to this website…
The trailer you choose to use will have an GVM rating (weight + carrying capacity). For example, small trailers typically weigh 750 kg GVM.
In the above example the above example, you’d need 2 wheels that are rated at 375kg or greater.
Step 4: Selecting between galvanized or alloy rims
What is the different between alloy and steel rims?
Aluminum rims are lighter than alloy ones for the same dimensions.
The most common misconception is that alloy is more resistant to rust than galvanized steel. This is a myth since the majority of alloy wheels are made of marine-grade alloy.
We have observed that alloy wheels (non-marine grade) are more susceptible to corrosion than galvanised steel. This is because water gets stuck between the rim and tyres at bead and valve. The alloy is oxidized and expands, creating a great deal of trouble when replacing tyres or fixing punctures. The bead will not be able to seal due to corrosion and , consequently, let air pressure out.